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Bernd Schmeikal
Image 1: vulcanos.jpg
Nisyros
Some day in winter 1981-82 there appeared on the island a strange anthropologist
who had read about a tiny spot in the Aegean where in a most spectacular
way eternity, world and underworld would meet. He was a rather lost figure
then
Image 2: man.jpg
He began to think about life on a vulcano and published some article on
religion and social structure on Nisyros the first page of which read
about as follows:
Journal für Entwicklungspolitik 2, 1985. S. 88-106
Bernd Schmeikal-Schuh
DREAM-ISLAND NISYROS
Mytho-logic, Religion and Social Mobility in an Island-Community
1. A Place in Mind
The mind and the heart of the Dodecanesians, has been said by one of their
most recognized members is pagan and Magic. Their rites and ceremonies,
their beliefs and superstitions reach far beyond Christianity. A pagan
mind is one that is willing to see correlations where there are none.
lt may recognize the spirit of a person in a tuft of her hair and receive
joy through it or eventually try to do her harm by burning it. Modern
society, we believe, has overcome this. But the civilized mind, though
convinced of its superiority does much the same. The joy and the pain
we give others are based on our illusions. Often it is the illusion of
irreparable conflict that brings us death and despair in the form of war.
But also the correlations modern society has brought on, as for instance
the correlation between sex, income and ability, are no less magic, no
less artificial.
The what and the how we are seeing and that we see or don't see what we
see, the what and how we forget, and that we forget we have forgotten
is constructed in and by our culture: by our collective subconscious.
The pagan mind cannot be pushed away. it cannot be overcome by repression.
A repressive mind, however civlized and well educated it may be, is a
dangerous mind. On the other hand, a quite simple pagan disposition may
always be accessible to the natural flow of emotions and vital power.
I believe it is therefore that I have chosen to inquire into the island
of Nisyros.
Nisyros is a place of power. Here paganism and christianity still live
side by side. its people, as everywhere in the Dodecanese, are lineal
descendents of the illustrious Hellenes of old - as Jacob Casivis has
put it - they lived upon the same places and nursed our infant civilization
on the breast of Hellenism. At various times and places these people go
back to the roots of ecstasy. Then they sing and they dance, and they
improvise poetry in the succession of the Homeric rhapsods. Oh, how they
enjoy it. So, you see, when I was there for the second time, I put a brief
note in my diary: Nisyros is not a place on the map. It is a place in
the mind.
2. Nisyros on the Map
Nisyros is a tiny, mountainous island in the aegean sea opposite ancient
Knidos of Asia Minor. Having the form of a disc with about 43 square miles,
it is situated 11 miles south of Kos, 58 miles from Rhodos and 240 miles
east of Piraeus. You can approach it once a week by a vessel named after
admiral Miaoulis. He had anchored his frigate on Giali, the island opposite
Nisyros, during the Greek revolution where he also had dug a well that
can still be seen. Since recent years a ferry named Nereus is also going
there. But you may even choose to travel to Kos first and then take the
'Express' or 'Panormites'. Nisyros is now said to have about 1300 permanent
residants. But that number fluctuates strongly because of intensive migration
and mobility. There are 800 souls in Mandraki, capital of the island,
and 500 in the remaining three villages of Pali, Emborios and Nikia. But
at times, in old Nikia, which is the largest, one can hardly count fifty.
Most of them are living abroad most of the time. lt was Nikia where the
research has been carried out . . .
The old vessels 'Miaoulis' and 'Panormites' don't go there any more and
times have changed altogether. What the anthropologist found out in essence
was that those rapid changes brought forth by economic development and
social mobility as are taking place all over the world are also affecting
the little dream island community. Take for instance birth giving in the
mountain village of Nikia. Babies are no longer born on the island at
all and the proportion of Nikiates actually born in Nikia has rapidly
decreased until the 80s.
Figure 1: Proportion of Nikia-born Nikiates and female offspring 1880
to 1980
Image 3: Nisy_tab.jpg
(legends to figure 1)
upper curve: proportion of Nikia-born Nikiates
lower curve: proportion of female offspring
This sounds all somewhat serious, indeed. But, as a matter of fact, the
anthropologist had great fun in the later years. He spent most of his
evenings in the little restaurant of Anna and Georgios Candilis up there
in Nikia.
The little old restaurant of Anna and Georgios Candilis opposite to the
church of Nikia
Picture 1, Picture
2, Picture 3, Picture
4
This little old restaurant too is no longer in use because the priest
Papa Dimitri needed it so badly. Candilis had to step down a few meters
and turn one of the former rooms of his father into a new coffee house.
The famous bovins of Nikia
Image 5: cow.jpg
There are archaic places on the island such as this cave at cape Katsouni,
a place with good fishing grounds
Cave on cape Katsouni
Image 6: caves.jpg
Nice spot on cape Katsouni
Image 7: Katsouni.jpg
fisherman Thimeos fishing at cape Katsouni
Image 8: Thimeos.jpg
Caves are the original domiciles of mankind. Therefore the anthropologist
spends many a time with his family in the cave of an Austrian friend in
Mandraki.
In a cave house in Mandraki
Image 9: cavehouse.jpg
His children go for a swim to
Pali
Image 10: Pali.jpg
or to
Chochlaki beach
Image 11: Chochlaki.jpg
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