NISYROS.NET
Where families meet
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Georgia and
I first visited Nisyros in the summer of 1991. We had been to Greece many times
before, and always tried to find destinations that had not been spoilt by
tourism. We stayed in the Porfyris
Hotel, which then had the only swimming pool on the island. During our stay we increasingly warmed to the
island, and to the people who were so friendly and generous to us. We spent
many evenings in "Café Bar Laderos", and became friendly with the
owner Giorgos, who gave me so many free beers that I am sure his bar must have
been running at a loss. Another regular customer in the bar was
Yiannis, who was in charge of the electricity supply to the island. (We later
found out that he is Giorgo's cousin, but then everybody in Nisyros seems to be
related to everybody else somehow!)
Although he has since been moved to Rhodes by his employers, he still
returns to Nisyros whenever he can. Yiannis told us about recent plans to build
a geo-thermal power station at the top of the volcano to provide electricity
for the South Dodecanese islands, using the natural energy of the volcano. He
took us up in his old car to show us the sites where test bores had been
drilled to ascertain the amount of energy that might be harnessed. The picture shows the drill bits used to dig
these bore holes. (There was a lot of
local opposition to this project, and the power station has not been
built. Such a huge industrial
development would totally ruin the character of the island). During the
holiday we saw the volcano, the eerily empty village of Emborio and the
spectacularly pretty village of Nikia, perched precariously on the edge of the
volcano crater. We also spent many lazy days on White Beach, soaking up the sun
and snorkelling among the rocks. When
the time came to go home, we had already decided to return the next year. When we did
return in 1992, Georgia was 6 months pregnant. People were even more generous
to us! Babies are obviously very special in Greece. Due to Georgia's condition this holiday involved
even more lazing on White Beach. We had thought that we would get to and from
the beach by the wonderful ancient bus that trundles around the island, but it
was not running so I had to hire a scooter, which was a bit scary as I had not
ridden one for about 15 years! On this
trip we were befriended by Lefteris, who has interests in several businesses on
the island, and was very generous to us.
We came
back to Nisyros in July 1993 with our baby, Emma. This time we stayed in an
apartment in the centre of Mandraki, which was really nice. Everybody in
Nisyros loved our baby, but were confused by her name, Emma, which sounds like
"αιμα" - the
Greek word for blood. We next
visited the island in 1995. This time we stayed in an apartment on the edge of
Mandraki, near the start of the path up to Paliokastro. This apartment is owned
by Stelios Fotinis, a local plumber, and is one of two built above his house.
It is very spacious, has two balconies overlooking the narrow street, and
staying in it you really feel part of the local community. I can thoroughly
recommend it to anyone with a small, young family. Sitting on the balcony at
night you can watch a small owl perch and every so often swoop down to catch a
mouse or insect. On the
second day of our holiday, we met another couple from London, Phil and
Caroline, whose daughter Lucy is the same age as our Emma. They discovered
Nisyros in 1985, and go every year, sometimes for a month at a time, much to
our envy. We got on very well with them and spent many an evening with them in
Ilikiomeni Square, where our daughters play with the local children, while we
enjoy the retsina. One evening
we went to the annual festival in the monastery of St. John the Theologian near
Nikia. There was traditional music and dancing, marvellous food and lots of
retsina and beer. This is a genuine local festival, and not something provided
for the tourists, as you find in many holiday destinations. It was this
year that I first walked from Mandraki to the volcano, where I met with Georgia
& Emma who had come up on the bus. I walked the easy route, around the west
and south of the island, past St. Stavros monastery. The views over the sea to
Tilos are spectacular. We had got
on so well with Phil, Caroline and Lucy that the next year, 1996, we all
travelled to the island together in September.
In the meantime we had visited each other's homes in London. We went to
another festival, this time in St. Stavros monastery, and again had a great
time. I planned
to walk up to the volcano again, taking a route that appeared to be shorter but
steeper. Again I planned to meet Georgia
& Emma at the top. However I lost the path, ended up in Emborio, having
climbed a mountain, and then had to descend 800 metres to the volcano crater,
running to get there before the bus left without me. I just made it! We
had loads of days on the beach with the children and wonderful lunches by the
peaceful fishing harbour at Palloi.
However, in Mandraki, the peace was shattered every so often by loud
cracking noises. I thought that these were hunters' rifles or explosions on the
nearby quarry island of Yiali. However, during one particularly loud one, I was
sure I felt the house shake. Our landlord, Stelios, excitedly informed me that
it was an earthquake. Apparently the island suffers small tremors from time to
time. We
found out that every Wednesday a hydrofoil (flying dolphin) made a round trip
from Kos to In 1997 our
second daughter, Chloe, was born so we missed our annual trip to our favourite
island. Phil and Caroline went and told us all the gossip when they got back.
(Caroline is very good at finding out gossip!) Phil had been told that the
earth tremors we had experienced the previous year had been getting worse, and
had seen that several houses in the monastery corner of Mandraki had been
abandoned as they had large cracks running through them. We saw this for
ourselves the following year. Expert
seismologists have apparently visited the island and done all sorts of tests
and measurements, and concluded that there is no danger of a large quake in the
immediate future. By 1998 we
could not wait to get to Nisyros and show off our new baby, so we went in May,
(when it is not so hot). The flowers at this time of year are really
spectacular. We were pleasantly surprised to find that the day before we
arrived, 6 hire cars had appeared on the island. We became the first people on
the island to hire one, see photo - the car has no licence plates, as it had
not yet been registered! This made getting around with a 10-month-old baby so
much easier, and we were able to go to places we had never seen before, such as
Panaghia Kyra monastery. The car made a great difference to our holiday. We
could breakfast in Mandraki, go and admire the view at Nikia, have a coffee in
Emborio and then down to the volcano crater before a pleasant drive down to
Palloi for lunch and an afternoon on White Beach. In previous years we had been reliant on the
bus or our own feet. However,
having the car did not stop me climbing up to the volcano. Again I lost the
path on the way up and went 'cross country' down the terraced mountainside. I found
several tiny ancient stone houses, and the skeletons of two goats that had
obviously been cooked in a bonfire. I
was later told that another walker had once found human skeletons in this area,
but that story has not been corroborated. On the way back I at last found the
correct path. I am told that the Nisyros authorities have been given money to
improve these footpaths and mark them better. If anyone is thinking of walking up to the
volcano in summer please learn from my experience. Do not attempt to do it in
the middle of the day, it is too hot. Take a lot of water. Cover up and use
plenty of high factor sun cream. Wear
good strong boots or walking shoes, and good sunglasses. Getting lost is not a
serious problem as Nisyros is such a small island, but some of the climbs are
quite steep and there are some long drops if you do stray off the path, like
me. Make sure that someone 'back at base' knows what you are doing, so they can
raise the alarm if you don't return at the expected time. Our eldest daughter, Emma, had
made friends with several local children, despite the language barrier, and one
day was invited to the birthday party of the girl in the house next door to our
apartment. I had to go too, as interpreter, and was really touched by the hospitality
that was shown to us. In 1999 we
went to Nisyros in August. When we eventually arrived after missing the boat
and having to overnight in Kos, the people were as generous as ever. My
daughter was invited to a birthday party again, and we were given plenty of
fresh eggs and more figs than we could eat.
I have never been to the island
in August before and was quite surprised at how crowded it was. Most of the
other visitors were Greeks, many from the USA, but there were also German,
Dutch, Italian and French visitors.
There were however almost no British people staying on the island. There
were, of course, the day-trippers who come over from Kos (up to 1,000 a day,
mainly German, British and Dutch), and who make a significant contribution to
the economy of the island. I was also surprised at how many
people bring their cars to the island, there was traffic congestion in Mandraki
on some occasions, and Heroes Square became a car park. We contributed to this by hiring a car, and
once again it was very useful, despite getting a puncture at Emborio. With two small children, it was
difficult to do much walking around the island but on the few walks I did take
I was very disappointed at the amount of discarded rubbish that litters the
countryside. In Mandraki and Palloi the streets are kept clean and the rubbish
bins emptied daily, but as soon as you step outside the villages the ground is
strewn with empty plastic water bottles, plastic bags, cigarette packets, etc.
While the day-trippers may be blamed for dropping litter in the volcano and in
Mandraki, I am afraid that the local people must take responsibility for
polluting the surrounding countryside. In Nikea household rubbish is just
thrown over the mountainside into the volcano crater, and the view into the
caldera is marred by piles of trash, much of it non-biodegradable plastic,
which will be there forever. Nisyros is a beautiful place, why do people not
wish to keep it that way? It may seem impertinent for a visitor to seem to be
criticising some of the inhabitants of the island, but I am doing so because we
love the place and do not wish to see it disappear under a mountain of
discarded plastic bottles. We visited the folk museum in
Mandraki, and had quite a long chat with the curator. He told us that money had
been received to repair the houses damaged by earth tremors in 1996/7, and we
saw (and heard) some of this restoration work going on. Work on building the new archaeological
museum has also progressed, with the outer walls of the new building almost
complete. We also
found out that plans to build the geo-thermal power station have been scrapped,
and the test bores have been capped. I had not realised that a by-product of
this plan would have been a supply of fresh water (from the condensed steam).
Maybe it was not such a bad idea after all. My overwhelming memories of our
1999 holiday will be the warmth of the sea at White Beach, the non-stop
sunshine (apart from the partial eclipse) and once again the generosity of the
people. We left looking forward to returning in 2000. So in
August 2000, we made our 8th trip to Nisyros. Once again we had a great time.
We arrived from Kardamena on the 'Chrisoula'. This boat leaves Mandraki every
morning except Tuesday, sometimes stopping at Yiali to offload supplies or
disembark workers from the quarry, and arrives at Kardamena about 9 am. It
leaves Kardamena at 2.30pm for Mandraki and Palloi. We were met on the quay at
Mandraki by our hire car and our friends Phil & Caroline and their daughter,
Lucy. Phil and Caroline had arrived the previous week and were staying in the
Romanzo Hotel. Also on the 'Chrisoula' was Veronica, Phil and Caroline's
neighbour who had come to join them for a week.
After retsina at the Romanzo we
drove to our apartment at the other end of the village. Again we were staying in one of the
apartments above the house of Stelios Fotinis. These are large, fully equipped
apartments, not the basic cells that English tour companies describe as
'villas'. Also the rent is very reasonable. Stelios is a really nice guy whose English is
pretty good (a lot better than my Greek anyway!) and his charming wife, Poppy
keeps the place spotless. If you would like more details about this
accommodation, please e-mail edward.prothero@tiscali.co.uk and I will
answer any questions and give you contact details. We did all the usual things,
beach, snorkelling, eating, drinking, and would have slept quite well if it
were not for a particularly stupid cockerel that had not been told that it is
not supposed to crow until morning, and so started about midnight (a nocturnal
cockerel?) On the beach we kept seeing
these very fast space-age boats going past. In fact they are catamarans, the
Sea Star and the Dodecanese Express. Both were new boats that only came into
service that year. We took our hire car
to Kos Town on the Dodecanese Express; inside it is like an aircraft, air
conditioned and very comfortable. In Kos we drove to the Aschlipeio, the first
purpose-built hospital in the world, and to Therma, where hot springs run into
the sea making it as warm as a hot bath. On the first Saturday of our
holiday it was our friend Phil's birthday, which we celebrated with lobster at
Tony's Taverna on the sea front in Mandraki. Tony worked in New York for many
years, returning to his native Nisyros to run his taverna with his wife and two
daughters. The food is excellent and Tony also serves the only take-away food
in Nisyros - gyros, what we would call doner kebabs in England, only much, much
better. We could not help noticing how
crowded Nisyros was this year. This was because we had arrived just in time for
the festival of Panaghia (The Virgin Mary). Many ex-patriate Nisyrians return
to celebrate the festival, from all over Greece, Europe and the rest of the
world, especially the USA where there are 2,500 Nisyrians in New York alone
(compared to a population of approx. 1,000 in Nisyros itself). On the eve of
the festival Mandraki was heaving, the harbour was jammed with boats from Kos
and every taverna and bar was overflowing. You could not move in Ilikiomeni
Square. On the day itself there was Mass at the Monastery in the morning,
followed by a meal in the square and traditional music and dancing in the
evening. I really enjoyed the spectacle but I must admit I was glad when the
crowds had gone. I walked up to the volcano again,
and actually did NOT get lost this time! The path is deteriorating though, and
is actually quite dangerous in places. Do not attempt this walk with small
children! At the volcano I met with our
old friend Lefteris who owns the snack bar there and he was able to confirm a
rumour that I had heard the previous year. It appears that a few weeks before
her tragic death in 1997 Diana, Princess of Wales visited the Nisyros volcano
as part of a private tour of Greek Islands. Lefteris showed us the place where
she had sat. Also at the top of the volcano, a new amphitheatre is being built.
This is to stage plays and concerts, but why they should choose to build a
theatre in the windiest and most inaccessible part of the island is completely
beyond me. The smell of the sulphur would also detract from the enjoyment of
any entertainment - or maybe you get used to it. We visited Nikea, where there is
now even more garbage spoiling the view of the volcano crater, and Emborio
where more houses are being renovated and a road is being built to give
vehicles access to the top end of the village. We went to a concert in the
football stadium, which featured traditional dancing in the traditional red ladies
costumes - only we could not see the dancers because it was dark! We went up to the old castle above Mandraki,
which I think, is my favourite place on Earth. We took the children swimming at
the Hotel Porfyris' pool, and spent many days on White Beach. We did not go to Nisyros in 2001,
instead having a glorious 2 weeks in the Ionian Islands (Lefkada and Meganisi)
and a very wet week in Germany, where we ate in a Greek restaurant in Potsdam
(the only decent food we had in Germany). June 2002 saw us back in Nisyros.
We stayed a week in Stelios' apartment and had quite a few meals in Tony's
Taverna, at our daughters' insistence as Tony's was home to a family of four
kittens. Once again we hired a car from Ilias Diakomikhalis. Hire cars are now available from
Diakomikhalis Travel and Tourist Agency, (Tel: 31459 Fax: 31527) and Enetikon
Travel who are agents for Manos K Car Rental (Tel: 31180). Also there is now a bank in
Mandraki, which will give cash advances on credit cards - useful if funds are running
low. The weather was glorious and the
sea as still as I have ever seen it. That did not stop us trying the swimming
pool at the 'Haritos' hotel, which is right on the sea front, overlooking the
harbour. Because it was so early in the season we had the place to ourselves -
our own private pool and bar! While in Mandraki I looked around
the two houses then being restored by Paul Campanis, who runs this website.
Both are in excellent locations in the centre of Mandraki, one is right on the
sea front next to a taverna. I must admit that I feel more than slightly
envious of Paul, to own property in such a beautiful part of the world. After a week doing not very much
in Nisyros we took the 'Sea Star' catamaran and went to Tilos for a week. The
journey only takes 30 to 40 minutes and the boat is luxurious inside. Tilos is
even smaller than Nisyros with a resident population of only 300. It has two
villages, Livadia and Megalochorio ('Big Village!'). Livadia is the port and
not much else, except a tourist resort. However in June it is really quiet with
most of the accommodation empty. We stayed in a brand new apartment above the
'Blue Sky Taverna', overlooking the harbour. Despite the problems with the
plumbing this was a great place to stay, although not ideal with two children
as it was really designed for a couple. However the view from the balcony made
up for any minor problems. Megalochorio is where the
inhabitants of Tilos live. It has a shop, two tavernas and almost no
accommodation for tourists. There is also a small deserted ruined village
called Microchorio ('Small Village') which is quite spooky as you walk around
its deserted alleyways. Other than that Tilos has some nice beaches, good
tavernas (and one or two bad ones!) and is very relaxing. To find out more
visit www.tilostravel.co.uk. This is the website of Tilos Travel who are
based in Livadia. The office is run by David and his charming partner Lynda.
They can arrange anything for a holiday in Tilos, including flights, and are
really nice people as well. The most eventful part of our
2002 holiday was the journey home.... Our flight was from Kos on
Wednesday afternoon. As there is no ferry between Tilos and Kos on either
Tuesday or Wednesday we took the 'Sea Star' back to Nisyros on Tuesday
afternoon with the intention of taking the 'Chrisoula' to Kos early Wednesday
morning. We arrived in Mandraki and checked in to the Haritos hotel for one
night, but were disappointed to find that the pool was empty. The proprietor
explained that the sea was rough and the water too dirty to fill the pool. In
the evening we checked the departure time of the 'Chrisoula', to be told that
it would not be running as the sea was too rough. We were woken Wednesday
morning by the wind and could see that water in the harbour was so choppy that
boats were unable to get in or out. This was serious. Our flight was from Kos at 1
p.m. and we were stuck on Nisyros. I
made a lot of telephone calls and found that if we could obtain a letter from
the Mandraki harbour master explaining the situation I might be able to reclaim
the cost of buying new aeroplane tickets from our travel insurance. This took a
while but the people in the Mandraki Port Police office were marvellous, and I
was so glad that I had learned to speak some Greek. I knew it would come in
useful one day! Meanwhile Ilias Diakomikhalis made some calls and found out
that the day trip boats were still coming that day. (Being much bigger they
could sail in the rough seas.) This meant that we would be able to get to Kos,
although we would miss our 1pm flight. All we could do was sit and wait until
3pm, when the day-trip boats return to Kos. We spent a very relaxing day!
Having accepted the situation we were resigned to the fact that we were going
to have to find a flight back to anywhere in the UK (or maybe Paris or
Brussels) and get a train back to London - and it was going to cost a lot of
money that we might not get back. So, we took the boat to Kos at
3pm and then a taxi to the airport, arriving 4 hours after our flight's
scheduled departure time. There we found huge crowds outside the terminal
building, queues everywhere and a lot of very unhappy people. Due to a French
air traffic controllers' strike and a Greek airport workers' strike the airport
had been closed for most of the day and our flight had not even started
checking in! Our flight eventually left at 8pm - 7 hours late, and we must have
been the only happy people on it! Despite all of that we couldn't
wait to return to Nisyros in 2003, and we were lucky enough to be able to take
3 weeks holiday. Fortunately we did not have any dramas with weather and
flights this time. We spent our first week in
Kalymnos. This is a much bigger island than Nisyros, with quite a different
atmosphere. There is a fair amount of tourism but it is concentrated on the
western side of the island, which has the best beaches, and is fairly
low-key. We stayed in a sleepy village
called Vlichadia, and found it very relaxing, putting us nicely in the mood for
the following fortnight in Nisyros. We once again stayed in an
apartment above Stelios' house, where our next door neighbour in the other
apartment was Artin, the photographer. The island was very crowded because we
had again arrived in time for the festival of the Virgin Mary on August 15th.
There were many Nisyrian Americans over from the USA, and we became friendly with
Nick Politis from New York and his wife and two daughters. Nick's Mother has a
house in Mandraki which she visits most years, and Nick told me what life in
Nisyros was like when he used to visit as a child in the 1960s. It seems that a lot of money is being
spent on Nisyros. Many more houses in Mandraki, Nikea and Emborio are being
renovated and the roads have improved a great deal. There is now a passable
road down to Avlaki, which we visited for the first time in 10 visits to
Nisyros. We swam in the crystal clear
water of the small harbour. There is only one inhabited house there, with
several in ruins and a small monastery, which looked as if it had recently
celebrated a festival. This year the island had a good
bus service, connecting all the villages and the volcano, running 4 or 5 times
a day, and by Greek standards the timetable was fairly accurate in 2003. (See
2004 below!) We had the usual leisurely
lunches in Palloi, where the beach has been cleaned up. This is now a great
place for swimming with the children because the sea is so still, being inside
the harbour wall. We also spent many days on Has anybody else noticed that
White Beach is shrinking? And it is most definitely not white any more, most of
the white sand having been washed away. By far the most popular beach on
Nisyros in 2003 was Pachys Ammos, beyond Lies Beach. There was a community of
at least 25 tents camping there, and many more daily visitors using the new car
park at the end of the road to Lies and walking along the treacherous path
round the headland. We went to Tilos for a day on one
of the inter-island ferries, and met some people we had befriended the previous
year. This year we could not help
noticing that prices of almost everything have increased significantly since
2002. This can partly be explained by
the strength of the Euro compared to the UK pound, but even so things seemed a
lot more expensive. The festival of Panaghia (the
Virgin Mary) once again passed with music, dancing and crowds of people,
although I felt that there were not as many visitors from nearby islands as in
previous years. Nisyros seems to be slowly
changing, smartening itself up, perhaps to attract more visitors. However it
still remains as beautiful as ever and I continue to hope that it will not fall
prey to the uncontrolled mass tourism that has spoiled so many other Greek islands.
Retrieving our luggage we went to
the Tourist Information Office who found us a room at the Hermes Hotel near the
harbour front. Basic and clean but there was only a 3-bedded room available.
Chloe thought this was great as she got to share a bed with Mummy! We had a look round After breakfast the next morning
we walked down to the harbour to board the Sea Star. The weather seemed just as
windy as the previous evening but the catamaran sailed. It was ROUGH! The
catamaran crashed into waves and every so often seemed to drop from the top of
a wave and land heavily a second later. I don’t get sea-sick but Chloe really
suffered and by the time we arrived at Livadia harbour in Tilos she had turned
a delicate shade of green. We were met by David and Lynda
from Tilos Travel who had booked our accommodation, the ‘Kalokairi Oneira’
(Summer Dreams) apartments. They introduced us to Maria, who was to be our
landlady. She is originally from Tilos but now lives in Once again we hired a car from
Tilos Travel and spent a pleasant few days pottering around the island and
swimming in the sea. From the mountain road in the north of the island there is
an excellent view of Nisyros on a clear day. The only bad part of our stay on
Tilos was Emma being stung by a jellyfish. Fortunately it was not too bad and
the sting lasted only a few hours. However I subsequently heard of 2 other
children that I know being stung in the same month, one in Nisyros and one in
Kalymnos, a very nasty sting that has left a scar. Was there a plague of
jellyfish in the During our trips to
While we were in Nisyros there
was a wedding, which seemed to last for 3 days and involve the whole village.
We were privileged to be able to watch some of the proceedings and procession
from our balcony. As part of the celebrations our friend Stelios the plumber
was handing out silk bags containing sugared almonds, and made sure that our
girls received one each. This is a tradition at Greek weddings – I wish I could
remember what they are called! Once again we met with our
friends Phil & Caroline, who were staying at the ‘’Romanzo’ with their
daughter, Lucy. This hotel on the harbour front has had some refurbishment,
with new en-suite facilities. We spent our days on the beach, often accompanied
by Sofia, daughter of Michelle from ‘Enetikon Travel’. The girls all got on
really well, which made it a great holiday for all of us. The bar at Yet again we hired a car from
‘Diakomihalis Travel’ at a very good price – almost half what we paid in
Tilos, and he has some nice new cars. We went to all the usual places, volcano,
Emborio, and Nikea, which has a new taverna, with a spectacular view over the
sea to Tilos. On the days that we did not have the car we used the buses, which
unfortunately seem to have returned to their old unpredictable timetable. We
had to resort to calling Babis who runs a taxi service and the ‘Nisyros
Taverna’. I highly recommend both businesses! After spending our last afternoon
at the ‘Haritos Hotel’ swimming pool we returned to Tilos, again on the ‘Sea
Star’. We spent 2 nights there, swimming in the sea outside our apartment and
eating both evenings at the ‘Armenon’ taverna on the sea front. Fresh food and
a different menu every day. We returned to All too soon it was time to find
a taxi to the airport. As we climbed into the Aegean sky we had perfect aerial
views of Tilos, then Nisyros and then Kalymnos. For 2005 we decided to combine a week in Nisyros with a week in When making travel arrangements I was surprised to discover that the
‘Chrisoula’ no longer runs. It has been bought by Enetikon
Travel and re-named the ‘Nisyros’ but still departs from Kardamena
at 2pm – just 10 minutes too early for us to catch it due to our flight being
delayed for no apparent reason and with no explanation from Excel Airways. In
the past this would have meant an overnight stay in Kos but this summer Enetikon’s other boat the ‘Agios Konstantinos’
was doing a later crossing at approximately 5pm – on this day delayed to 7pm.
After a very rough crossing we eventually arrived in Mandraki at about 8pm
having spent about 5 hours travelling and 9 hours waiting for various forms of
transport that were inexplicably delayed, oh – and being grossly overcharged by
a dishonest taxi driver in Kos. I have since been warned that this is
regrettably an increasing problem. This is very disappointing to me as I have
always been impressed by the honesty of Greek people. We arrived at Paul’s house to be soothed by the wonderful views over the
sea to Yiali and I had been unable to reserve a hire car from Ilias
at Diakomihalis, as he was fully booked, so I got one
from Manos K, on the harbour front. Slightly more expensive and older, but
still it only broke down once! We had to keep the car at the harbour because
cars were not allowed into the village due to the congestion and parking
problems! It is hard to believe that only 14 years ago there were almost no
cars at all on the island. We used the car
to go to all the usual places, especially the beach. We found that Although we had a
great time in 2005 I noticed that Nisyros is noticeably changing. As more houses
are restored and more money seems to be coming into the island, it is becoming
more commercialised. We often come in August but I have never seen so many
people staying on the island before. The music bar close to the house sometimes
played loud music into the early hours, which did not amuse me at all. One of
our reasons for going to Nisyros for our holidays is to avoid noisy resorts.
The crowds meant that the popular tavernas were full
early on and service was slow. I guess the lesson must be to avoid going in
August but when you are limited to For the second
week of our holiday we rented a small new purpose-built holiday home on the
North coast of Our journey home
was once again a nightmare of delays and misinformation. Having spent almost an
entire day at I am not sure if
we will return to Nisyros in 2006, but we will certainly not be going in
mid-August, as at that time of year it is no longer the relaxing place I
remember from previous years. Such is progress… |